My Guide to Montréal

Photo by Samuel Charron on Unsplash

I love writing about my travels, and especially the food I eat while I travel. Yet, I’ve rarely written about my Home, Montreal. As I’m starting my newsletter, it seems like a logical start.

Whether you’re living here or just visiting the city, here are my recommendations.

Note: I will update this list periodically. Last update March 2025

Bagels

You can’t come to Montreal without trying some Montreal bagels. To me, they’re the quintessential Montreal food. (Yes, more so than smoked meat and poutine - which originated in Québec City) In fact, here’s my “hill I’m willing to die on”: Montreal bagels are superior to NYC bagels.

There are many bagel spots in Montreal, some even offering NYC-style bagels. But when you’re talking OG Montreal bagels, there are only two spots that really matter: St-Viateur Bagel and Fairmount Bagel. These 2 shops have had a rivalry going back to the 1950s.

Personally, I’m in the St-Viateur camp, but since both original locations are within walking distance of each other, you might as well try them both and make your own opinion. Don’t be fancy with it, either. If you want to eat like the locals, tear off chunks of warm, freshly baked bagel and dip it straight into a tub of cream cheese (both shops have refrigerators full of them). There are various flavours of bagels available, but you can never go wrong with the classic sesame.

Any leftovers (if there are any) should be sliced and frozen, ready to be toasted and enjoyed later.

Restaurants

Alright, you’ve tried our bagels now. (Haven’t yet? Go! Now. Come back after.) Here are my favorite restaurants in the city.

Tiradito

This is the restaurant that first ignited my love of Nikkei cuisine (Peruvian/Japanese fusion). As someone who’s spent a good amount of time in Peru, I can tell you it’s not the most authentic, but it is absolutely delicious. The plates all come tapas-sized and the drinks are delicious, so this is a place best enjoyed with a large group of friends. After dinner, head downstairs to Pelicano to dance.

Tuck Shop

Located in my neighbourhood of St-Henri, this “casual fine dining place” is a great option for a nice dinner/date night. The menu is seasonal and constantly changing, so every time you go back there’s something new and interesting for you to try. Get a reservation on their back terrace (it’s the best place to be!) and gaze at their open kitchen.

Sumac

Also located in St-Henri, Sumac offers delicious middle-eastern food for dine-in or take-out at a reasonable price.

Barley

If you’re looking for brunch in St-Henri, my go-to is Barley. The crowd here definitely skews Gen-Z (that can be a pro or a con depending on who you are) and the place looks like one of those hip NYC brunch spots (definitely a pro, this is a cool place to be). I feel like their old menu was better, the cereal bar options were insane, but the new menu remains excellent. If you’re really hungry, the chicken and waffles is a good option.

Olive & Gourmando

Olive & Gourmando is located in Old Montreal. You’ll find this one on many tourist lists, but for a good reason. I order the same thing every time here: the Cuban Sandwich. It’s not the most authentic interpretation but OMG it is so good.

QDC Burger

There are multiple locations in the city. QDC stands for Queue de cheval, which used to be a renowned steakhouse in the city. Rumor has it they used to turn the trimmings from the steakhouse into ground meat and sell burgers out the back window after hours. The steakhouse is now closed, but the burgers remain. All the beef is dry-aged and ground fresh on-site. I recommend the Mob burger with some fries. Just be warned, it may ruin every other burger for you. That’s how good it is.

The Food Court at Atwater Market

In the summers, a few food vendors (including Satay Brothers and Falafel Yoni, two Montreal mainstays) set up temporary shop right outside Atwater Market. A great option for when you want to enjoy some tasty food in Montreal’s amazing summers. For dessert, there’s a mochi ice cream bar across the street.

Queues de Castor

This one is not a Montreal exclusive, but if you have a sweet tooth, you have to try this classic Québécois dessert. Multiple locations around the city.

Mr Puffs

This one also not a Montreal exclusive, but a guilty pleasure of mind. Sweet fried dough balls topped with your choice of toppings. What’s not to love?

Pizza

I’m a big fan of pizza, so it deserves its own category.

Pizzeria No. 900

Multiple locations in the city. Superb Neapolitan-style pizzas at an affordable price-point. What’s not to love?

Pizza Tony

For New York style pizza by the slice in Montreal, Pizza Tony is the place to be. It’s near St-Viateur Bagel, so stop there on your way back from picking up bagels and make it a carb-ful day (that’s what I usually do).

Slice & Soda

Also multiple locations in the city. I guess you could describe this place as New York style pizza? A favorite of local college students, they sell gigantic and very tasty slices. Great for when you’re hungry and just want something quick.

Bars

Atwater Cocktail Club

This “speakeasy” (in quotes because on weekends there’s often a line out front, which takes away from the speakeasy atmosphere) is located in St-Henri. The entrance looks like a questionable alley, but don’t let that fool you. Inside is a swanky cocktail bar with a very creative drinks menu. I don’t recommend it on weekends as it gets quite busy and the line outside can get very long. That said, it’s the perfect place for a mid-week date.

Pelicano

Located downstairs from Tiradito, this is a pool-theme bar/club (literally - the walls are decorated with the same ceramic tiles you’d find at the public pool). Being from the same owners as Tiradito, the drinks are delicious (and also have pool or water-themed names). There is a DJ and the place tends to turn into a club later at night when people start dancing, however, that’s not always the case. Even though the ambience can be hit-or-miss, it’s worth a try - I’ve gotten some pretty crazy stories from this place.

Ratafia

This wine bar in Little Italy specializes in serving deserts. I highly recommend asking them for their suggested pairings, they always manage to surprise me with unexpected but delicious pairings. A great option for date night.

Baby Bar

Another speakeasy in St-Henri, but this one really feels like a speakeasy. Look for the big white hand on the door (you’ll understand when you see it.) This one is run by one of the finalists of Netflix’s Drinks Masters series. They occasionally offer a special cocktail tasting menu (reservations required), which I haven’t had the chance to try yet. Their regular drinks menu is fantastic however, offering everything from elevated classics to very creative innovations. They occasionally have live music.

Big in Japan

I have not been there in a while, as they had closed down during the pandemic, but Big in Japan used to be one of my go-to bars. A Japanese whisky speakeasy (did I mention I like speakeasies a lot?) that never disappoints. They have a great selection of Japanese whisky you can sip neat, but if that’s not really your taste, they have some delicious cocktails. I recommend the Tokyo Mule, a spin on the Moscow Mule.

Festivals

There are a ton of festivals happening year long in Montreal. It’s worth doing a Google search before coming here to see what’s happening at the moment. Here are a few of my favorites.

Jazz Fest

Montreal has a world-famous Jazz festival that happens in the summer. There are a ton of free outdoor concerts as well as paid indoor ones and other events. A fantastic way to enjoy Montreal’s incredible summer weather.

Igloofest

How could I talk about Montreal’s festivals without talking about Igloofest? This one is a music festival that happens over a few weekends in the winter. Imagine Tiesto playing to a crowd dressed in ski suits and you’ll get the picture. Definitely unique.

Osheaga

Montreal’s biggest music festival which happens every summer in Parc Jean-Drapeau. 3 days of some of the biggest names in Pop.

Ile Soniq

By the same organizers as Osheaga, but more EDM rather than Pop. Also happens during the summers, usually right after Osheaga.

Piknik Electronik

Every Sunday in the summers, Parc Jean-Drapeau becomes the stage for this laid-back techno festival. A great way to enjoy a beautiful summer Sunday while having a drink with your friends and discovering some less well-known DJs.

Poutine Fest

Craving General Tso Poutine? Smoked meat poutine? Lobster poutine? You’ll find it all at Poutine Fest. Make sure you come with a big appetite!

Premiers Vendredis

On the first weekend of June, July and August, many Montreal food trucks converge in one place to give foodies the chance to sample indulge in some street food.

Fireworks

Every summer, La Ronde (see below) runs an international fireworks competition which runs over several weeks. There are many spots to observe these fireworks, some of them paid and others free.

Things to Do

Ice Skating in the Old Port

Montreal has many ice rinks and ice trails for skating in the winter, but my favorite one is located in the Old Port, right next to the ferris wheel. A fun winter activity that’s also affordable. You can bring your own skates or rent some on-site.

Walk Through Old Port during the Summer

There are many great places to walk through in Montreal, but one of my favorite is the Old Port. There are often activities happening, and you can occasionally find some food trucks (some are permanently parked there but they’re not the best - other than Félix and Norton which offers delicious cookies and is definitely worth a try.)

Markets

Montreal has several outdoor/indoor markets, but my favorites are Atwater Market in St-Henri and Marché Jean-Talon in Little Italy.

Parks

Montreal has some great parks and a great park culture. Visit any park during the summer and you’ll find many people having picnics and enjoying some drinks (it’s legal but under some conditions - inform yourself beforehand). Some great options are Parc Jarry, Parc Jeanne-Mance and Parc Jean-Drapeau.

Quartier des Spectacles

Quartier des spectacles is where a lot of the free outdoor concerts from all of our festivals happen during the summer. It’s Montreal’s art hub with the largest concert halls located there, along with many restaurants. There are also many events that happen there, such as the Christmas Market.

Orchestre Symphonique de Montréal (OSM)

If you’re a fan of classical music, then the OSM is a must. It’s one of the best orchestras I have ever heard. See their website for the schedule, and they also normally do a free outdoor concert in the summer that’s always spectacular.

Grands Ballets Canadiens

For fans of ballet, our ballet troupe is world-class.

La Ronde

For roller-coaster rides, La Ronde (operated by Six Flags) is a family favorite.

Bota Bota

For relaxation, Montreal has many spas where you can soak in hot tubs, sweat in saunas, get massages and just generally unwind. My favorite is Bota Bota, which is located on a real boat in the Old Port. It’s even more spectacular in the winters when you’re surrounded by snow.

Museums

Montreal also has many museums to visit. My favorite is the Musée des Beaux Arts de Montréal (the museum of fine arts), where the permanent collection is as interesting as the seasonal exhibits.

Closing Thoughts

Montreal is a really beautiful and vibrant city. I’ve only covered a few of my favorites but they barely scratch the surface of what Montreal has to offer. In fact, as much as I love traveling, I always enjoy coming back home, and I appreciate my city a little bit more every time.