Restaurant Review: Pánuco 36
Pánuco 36, a recently opened restaurant nestled at the end of a charming courtyard, offers a welcome respite from Mexico City’s hustle and bustle. Attached to the Mariane Ibrahim Art Gallery and the associated bookstore, the whole space feels like a tranquil oasis. I would highly recommend combining your visit to the restaurant with a visit to the gallery (or vice-versa) for a fun afternoon experience.
The menu boasts a fusion of elevated Mexican fare with Mediterranean influences, with a strong focus on vegetable-forward dishes. The menu is creative and the presentations are simple yet elegant, but the flavors can be hit or miss.
The ceviche de frutos rojos, for example, was a revelation. This dessert combines macerated strawberries, blueberries and blackberries, along with a raspberry sorbet and mezcal. The raspberry sorbet and mezcal flavor combination was novel and delicious. A must-try.
The asparagus aguachile, however, lacked the customary kick of spice (I would almost describe it as an aguachile sin chile). This is a shame because the dish otherwise really highlighted the freshness of the asparagus.
Similarly, the crepa de maíz, while tasty, didn’t quite reach its full flavor potential. I would’ve liked more dressing on the accompanying spinach salad, a small hint of spice and perhaps a small splash of acidity.
The service deserves high marks – friendly and attentive, going the extra mile to ensure a pleasant dining experience.
Overall: Pánuco 36 is a promising newcomer. The tranquil setting and innovative menu are a definite draw. While some dishes would benefit from a bit more kick in the flavor department, considering they’ve only been open two months, there’s room for refinement. I’m confident that with some tweaks, Pánuco 36 will become a truly amazing dining destination.
7/10